Coire Duhb Integral

Coire Duhb Integral Is an excellent classic winter alpine climbing objective that can match every level of climber! Good ice, quality rock, amazing positions, actual summit to stand on and a relatively short approach. 

Despite being close to the road, the overall climb requires a good level of fitness. It’s a long climb, with over 500m of climbing to the summit of lodder Peak. Once above the face one is truly only half way done. 
From the summit, begins a long descent on a beautiful moderate ridge with great views up into Jura creek and summits West of Exshaw. It can be windy coming down so we usually brew up a warm cup before adding a few layers and goggles.
The climb can be divided into three sections. The lower ice and snow sections, The Upper section’s rock and mixed climbing and the ridge and descent.

The Lower Section
Is essentially a gully climb, an alpine style couloir that offers three to four short and sometimes challenging steps of WI3. The steps are linked together by some long sections of moderate snow and ice. Once again the snow conditions can vary but usually the snow is hard and quite supportive making for nice and easy walking. In the right conditions, this section of the route is a must do moderate classic in it self.

The Upper Section
A maze of options! Once again there are options for every taste and challenge level, even enough options for future new routes to be done.
The easiest options can allow a party to nearly walk all the may up to the ridge.
In contrast, one can also climb directly to the summit by way of a steep difficult corner system. 
Usually most parties will opt for a mixture of climbing and walking that lead them to a saddle just right and below the summit. This option is the typical line of ascent and requires a fair amount of route finding in order to insure the highest quality line.
The climbing involves short rock and mixed sections, the use of tools vs the use of hands will depend as much on conditions one’s experience level using tools for climbing rock.

The Ridge
The ridge is a wild place, mainly wind slept, it can feel Himalayan when snow covered . On the ridge, no route finding can avoid the power of the elements. It is possible in the worst of conditions to escape down into Jura creek. However, the walk out of Jura creek may be hard in deep snow and should only be considered if conditions up high truly represent a safety concern. The ridge is mainly walking at the exception of a few short sections of scrambling where care is required, the ridge’s main challenge, is the wind and exposure to weather.

By Patrick Delaney

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