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Guide Spoken Language:
English, French & Spanish

Guide Location:
Canmore AB Canada
Chamonix France


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Ice Expert GuidesIce Expert RoutesIce Expert Courses
 
Eric Dumerac
Pioneering alpinist, rock, ice, mixed climber, backcountry skier and certified guide at your service.

Certifications & Credentials:
    - IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
    - CAA Level II professional member
    - CSIA level II Ski Instructor
    - P.E.P. Rope Resuce Team Leader
    
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Guide Bio

Eric has become an eminent figure in the ice and mixed climbing realm. He has made an important contribution of first ascents and has an impressive resume of difficult technical routes and solos. As a professionally certified IFMGA Mountain Guide, Eric has years of ice climb guiding and instruction under his belt. He works both locally and internationally, he enjoys teaching and guiding ice/mixed climbing, ski touring, heliskiing and instructing avalanche courses.

Some of Eric’s personal landmark achievements which are a testimony to his passion for the sport of ice and mixed climbing:  

 

  • 1986, Eric climbs his first ice on a short WI 2/3 flow in the forests of the granite batholith St. Hilaire in Quebec, with a plastic rope and probably as a first ascent.
  • First Ascent of “Rights of Passage VI 5.8 M5 WI 8 1000M” on the forbidding North face of Mt. Kitchener Eric along with fellow climber Philippe Pellet established the worlds first and hardest pure ice route graded at WI 8.
  • First Ascent of “Helter Shelter VII WI 6+, 460M” Eric along with colleague Shaun King established this sustained route on Mt. Quadra. It is the first grade VII undertaking ice route in the Rockies, which required a frigid bivouac in an ice cave and climbing through impressive seracs.
  • Solo of “Slipstream VI WI4+ 1000M”. Eric Soloed the legendary 1000 meter  route in 3 hours on Christmas day in 2001.
  • First Ascent of “Rocket Man, VI M7+ WI5+, 350M” North Face of  Mt. Patterson with Dave Thomson and Raphael Slawinski is the longest technical modern mixed route in North America
  • First Ascent of “The Rocky Mountain Horror Show M11+ F.A.  by Meekins, Thomson, Dumerac”,  at Panther Falls was at the time the hardest mixed route with its 25 meter roof and the huge cave is now known as the Cineplex with the famous mixed routes Mushashi and The Game.

Eric Says:

“When I guide ice and mixed climbing I am truly in my element. Whether it is teaching someone to ice climb for their first time, helping climbers maximize their technical skill or leading a guest up their dream route, I never take my trade for granted and feel truly privileged to be able to inspire, pass on and share my passion. It takes years of training and preparation to become a skilled master at ice and mixed climbing. Then to further obtain IFMGA Mountain Guide certification in order to develop the ability to teach and guide, in a safe, efficient and effective manner. It has been a labor of love. So lets get after it!"
Eric’s Recommended Ice Climbing Activities:
For me it is important to have a good mix of it all. It keeps things balanced, fun and interesting. In any case, I am sure you will enjoy my sense of enthusiasm, professionalism and passion for what I.

Courses:
I enjoy introducing beginners to the sports of ice and mixed climbing. It is important to build a good foundation of proper technique early on.

Private Guiding Ice Classics: EASY to MOST DIFFICULT
There is no doubt of course that I love pure private guiding, whether we are out for an easy relaxed day at an ice canyon or for a challenging day on a superb classic. My ice and mixed climbing ability also allow me to guide at all levels including the difficult routes. As such I am well able to accommodate those clients who seek to accomplish harder technical graded routes of WI 6 and up.

Ice & Mixed Clinics
As a technician, it’s very rewarding to fine tune someone’s skill in ice and mixed climbing and to then see them progress, breaking through grades and generally climbing in the best fashion.

First Acsents
One of the highlights of my career is establishing new routes. Ever since the first Swiss Guides came to Canada, this has been one of the rare and highly sought after activities for clients and their guide to undertake. There is nothing more rewarding in climbing than pioneering a new route. Having been very active in this domain and with a keen eye for unclimbed routes, I possess excellent knowledge of the range and know of many easily accessible as well as more remote areas where First Ascents can be made.



Testimonials:

“Just to say that both Maryam and I had a fantastic time with you in Canada and really hope we can meet up this summer in the Alps. We both learnt a lot ice climbing with you and we are very grateful for that!

Look forward to hearing from you soon
All the best

Daniel” 

Dr Daniel Martin
Research Fellow
Centre for Altitude Space and Extreme Environment Medicine
University College London
 

 


 

Thank you very much for our two days guiding, in particular your tuition on the snow and ice as well as your sterling efforts step cutting. I wish you every success with your plans. I would like to think that I will be able to visit the Rockies again.
Thank you for a "gold leaf" service.

Dane Atkin 
 


Guide Rate Information:

To retain my services please inquire for a quote. I customize all my guests trips to their specific requirements. I begin with a day rate of $450.00 a day. The rate does not include taxes, transportation, food or accommodation. For you convenience, the IGB has made special arrangements with local providers to make all of these available to our guests at a discounted rate. The day rate is subject to change in greater or lesser value depending on the amount of days, objective length and difficulty. Please inquire for a quote.


 


 

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