Mt Logan - King Trench Expedition

Located in Kluane National Park in the St. Elias Mountains of southwestern Yukon Territories, Mount Logan (5,959m/19,550ft) is the highest mountain in Canada, and the second highest in North America (after Denali in Alaska). To say it’s a big mountain is a big understatement. Towering approximately 3000m over the spectacular glaciated terrain around it, its height is not the only statistic that makes it an impressive objective: Logan is one of the biggest mountains in the world for land mass and the largest in terms of base circumference. No wonder it has been filling the imagination of climbers everywhere since it was first climbed in 1925!

Weather
Due to its proximity to the Gulf of Alaska, the weather in this area of the Yukon can be extreme. Weather conditions play a significant role in the timing and success of aircraft access to this area and participants must be ready for possible delays in getting to and from our basecamp. An extra week has been included into the length of this camp to allow the possibility of having to wait for an appropriate weather window. Open-ended travel arrangements are strongly recommended.

Level of Difficulty
Climbing days will be demanding, long days at elevations between
5000m and 6000m, although it is not necessary to have altitude experience. In fact, this is a good opportunity to experience high altitude mountaineering with easy access and relatively non-technical summits. Ascents are mostly on snow and ice with many easy and moderate climbs. Glacier travel, snow climbing, and snow camping experience are beneficial. A good level of fitness is needed, as you will be climbing for 5-8 hours a day with a 9-12 kg (20-25 lb) pack over snow and ice with significantly longer summit days. On days when we will be ferrying the gear up to advanced camps, your pack will be more in the range of 35 – 45 lbs.

Expedition Fees
Fees include: Guiding throughout the camp; glacier flight from Silver City to and
from basecamp; group gear including tents, stoves, fuel, etc.; expedition food for thirty days beginning on May 8; dinner and breakfast in Whitehorse on May 7 and 8; accommodation at the Best Western on May 7; ground transport from Whitehorse to/from Silver city (if necessary); camping at Silver City while waiting for flights; all climbing and parks permits.
Fees do not include: Accommodation required as a result of weather delays or any accommodation not listed above; no restaurant meals other than those listed above; transportation to and from Whitehorse; personal gear (see equipment list).

Transportation and Meeting Place
Our group will meet at the Best Western Goldrush Inn in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, on May 7, 2011. Early the following morning, we’ll travel north to Haines junction and then to the landing strip at Silver City, where we will fly in a small glacier plane to our remote base camp at 3,200m. From base camp, we’ll spend the next several days ferrying our gear to the top of the King Trench. Strategically placed rest days will be used as a means of acclimatizing ourselves to the higher elevations. During the first evening at the Goldrush Inn, there will be a group meeting, where your IGB guide will review the trip itinerary, participants' experience and expectations, do an equipment check, and divide up group gear. It is essential that all participants attend this meeting. The meeting will be followed by a fun evening out on the town.
Whitehorse can be easily reached by bus or air. There are normally two flights a day to Whitehorse with Air Canada via Vancouver. Air North also offers reasonable rates from Calgary and Edmonton. Greyhound Bus Lines go to Whitehorse: call 1-800-661-8747 or email www.greyhound.ca for more information. In the past, some people have chosen to drive to Whitehorse, which is a spectacular road trip through northwestern Canada. It is a two-day drive from Calgary or Edmonton.
You will be provided with a participant list prior to the camp. Please use this list to contact other participants in your area if you wish to arrange carpooling from major centres.

This trip may not run exactly according to calendar for reasons beyond our control (mountain weather, Parks regulations, etc.). Because of this, we recommend that you do not book any scheduled travel (such
as airline flights) within a day or two of the anticipated final day of the camp. This is particularly important when attempting to fly out of the St. Elias Mountains. It is not uncommon to wait 2 to 4 days for weather conditions to be suitable for flying.

Health Concerns
We will be bringing an extensive medical kit to cover minor injuries and minor medical problems. The kit will not include prescription medicines, which are the personal responsibility of the participant. If you feel you would like to bring additional medications, please consult Medicine for Mountaineering (Fourth Edition) by James A. Wilkerson, The Mountaineers, 1992. Personal medications may include aspirin or Tylenol and throat lozenges. Other drugs that you may consider bringing are: Ciprofloxacin (antibiotic), Gravol (nausea), and Diamox or Acetazolamide (altitude). These will help with the effects of altitude and will supplement what we have in the group medical kit. At high altitude in winter-like conditions, what otherwise are minor health problems can become major ailments. It will be very difficult to treat an injury or serious illness while in the mountains.
Please undertake a full medical examination and dental examination before the camp and start a pre-expedition fitness-training program.

Recommended Reading
1. Various articles on the first ascent of Mount Logan, Canadian Alpine Journal (CAJ) 15 (1925). 2. “The St. Elias Mountains, a preliminary survey of the unclimbed Peaks over 3600m”, CAJ 75 (1992): 4-19.
3. “Peaks in the Upper Donjek Glacier Area, St. Elias Mountains,” AAJ 35, 67 (1993): 158-162. 4. “Donjek ’92 – or the Great Orange Success,” CAJ 76 (1993): 73. 5. “Kluane’s St. Elias Mountains, a perfectly reasonable location for your next Section Camp?” ACC Gazette (Spring 1998).
6. “St. Elias Mountains and the Yukon,” CAJ 65 (1982): 73-79. 7. “Expedition Yukon, The 30th Anniversary Celebration.” Abridged Edition by Marnie Fisher and R.W. Sandford, 1997 ACC publication. 8. "The Raven and the Mountaineer" Exploration of the St. Elias
Mountains, Monty Alford, Hancock House 2005. 9. “The Organization of an Alaskan Expedition” Boyd N. Everett Junior, Gorak Books published 1984, p.1-112 (written in 1966 but still the best little book on the St. Elias/Alaskan mountaineering) 10. "Glacier Travel/Crevasse Rescue", 2nd Edition, Andy Selters, The Mountaineers, 2003, p.1-143 11. "Medicine for Mountaineering", 4th Edition, James A. Wilkerson, The Mountaineers, 1992 12. "Mountain Sickness, Prevention, Recognition and Treatment", Hackett, 1993 13. "Freedom of the Hills", The Mountaineers 14. 1967 Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition (YACE) from CAJ 1968, website http://expo67.ncf.ca

Trip Itinerary top of page

2011 Rough Itinerary
The weather will have an affect on our itinerary; however, this is what a conservative acclimatization plan might look like: May 7: Meet at the Best Western in Whitehorse; stay at the Best Western
May 8: Fly into base camp located on the Quintino Sella Glacier (2800m) during the first appropriate weather window May 9: Carry loads up the King Trench to Camp One (3270m) May 10: Move up to Camp One
May 11: Carry loads up to Camp Two, located at King Col (4100m) May 12: Move to Camp Two May 13: Acclimatization/Rest Day at Camp Two May 14: Carry loads up through the icefall to Camp Three (4700m) May 15: Move to Camp Three
May 16: Carry to Camp Four located on the Football Field (5400m) May 17: Acclimatization/Rest Day at Camp Three May 18: Move to Camp Four May 19: Ski up and over ANIA Pass (or Prospector's Col) and establish a high camp (5220m) on the summit plateau from which an attempt for the summit will be made.

Needless to say, this is the best-case scenario. Knowing Mount Logan well, we can say with some certainty that weather will delay our progress at various points during the expedition. Most commercial expeditions on the trench plan for twenty-one days; but the success rate of these trips have been reduced in recent years to a staggeringly low five percent. We have therefore added an extra week to this expedition to ensure the best chance at a summit.

Equipment List top of page

For transporting your gear to Whitehorse, please limit yourself to a ski bag and a large duffle bag as checked baggage and your backpack as carry on. Since both load carrying capacity and space are limited with the mountain aircraft, participants must keep the weight of personal gear to 23kg (50lbs) and the volume to a minimum. Extra fights to accommodate excess baggage are not possible and we may ask a participant to reduce his/her gear where warranted.

On a day to day basis, you may need to carry group gear in addition to your own personal items, so leave room in your pack for 3-4 kg (6-9 pounds) of group food and gear (ropes, first aid kit, repair kit, etc.). Check that all your equipment is in good working order and fits properly prior to arriving at camp. If you have borrowed or rented gear, it is particularly important to invest some time making sure that it is right for you. Be sure you understand how your equipment works. Broken or unsuitable equipment or blisters can potentially ruin your trip of a lifetime! If you are buying new boots before the
trip, you should do some skiing in them in advance to break them in. Please also bring a small repair kit that is specific to your gear. The weather, although generally good in the mountains at this time of year, could be variable and subject to rapid change. Participants should be prepared for a temperature range of -20°C to +20°C, along with high winds and blowing snow. Because of warm afternoon temperatures, climbs will begin early in the morning when temperatures are cold and surfaces frozen. Sunny afternoon periods will provide the opportunity for washing and drying clothing and gear.

Important Information Regarding Avalanche Transceivers Please read carefully!
EACH PARTICIPANT MUST HAVE A 457KHz FREQUENCY AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER.
This transceiver MUST be a make and model recommended by the Canadian Avalanche Association (www.avalanche.ca). This will be strictly checked and enforced prior to departing for base camp. If you arrive at the meeting place without a recommended avalanche transceiver, you will not be allowed to participate in the camp and will forfeit your fees. If you anticipate any difficulties obtaining a transceiver, please notify Marco or Zac at least 60 days prior to the camp. You must also purchase a complete set of replacement batteries for your avalanche transceiver. Do NOT rely on the batteries that come with the unit.

Participant Personal Equipment List
If you have any questions at all about any of the items on the list, please do not hesitate to contact Marco or Zac. We want to make sure that you have all of the necessary equipment without having too much! We expect you to use your preferences and experience when finalizing your personal lists.

Personal Clothing
• Two sets lightweight long underwear - polypro top & bottom • T-shirt or long sleeve white shirt (no cotton!) • Medium weight sweater layer • Warm fleece jacket and pants
• Windproof/waterproof (Gore-Tex) shell - jacket and pants • Down (or synthetic) jacket with hood • Ski pants – Schoeler material, nylon or wool blend • Warm toque
• Balaclava /face mask • Sun hat with neck and ear protection • Warm mitts with Gore-tex shells • Gloves for winter conditions • Glove liners (when above too bulky) • Socks and extras - your preferred combination • Gaiters – knee length + waterproof (check fit over ski boots) • Down booties for in camp • Insulated down overpants (nice to have!)

Personal Equipment
• One duffel bag, for travel and storage of gear at the staging area:
lined with plastic bag to waterproof • Warm four-season sleeping bag (minimum temperature rating - 20°C/ -4°F). • Thermarest and ensolite sleeping pad (for extra comfort on the snow) • Small pocketknife • Small lightweight headlamp • Ski goggles (for high winds) • Sunglasses with UV protection, dark lenses and side shields, nose shield • Sun block and lip protection with + 30 SPF • 2 Water bottles: 1 litre wide mouth (with insulator cover). *Do not bring Camelbacks or similar personal hydration systems as they freeze with the colder temperatures associated with high altitude. • Personal first aid kit: bandaids, moleskin, medications, throat lozenges, foot powder, etc. • Toilet kit, toothbrush, and camp towel, etc. (toilet paper is supplied) • Small stuff sac for lunch with zip-lock baggies • Sit pad for dining tent (will be sitting on snow benches): small piece of single-cell foam would work well • 2 or 3 Nylon stuff sacs (for clothes and food) • Large plastic bag to line pack and a few extra garbage bags • Pee bottle: for cold nights or storms (very nice to have!!) • Camera and film (optional) • Thermos (optional) • Ear plugs • MP3 player (optional) • Extra snack food (a few of your personal favorites) • Baby-wipes (very, very nice to have!!!) • A good book (optional)

Ski Equipment
• Mountaineering skis (short/wide are more stable and turn easier) with alpine touring or telemark bindings w/ski brakes or ankle safety straps • Climbing/ski boots with warm, removable inner boot (Intuition liners, or Thermoflex liners made with light closed cell foam, form fitted to your feet, are the best. They are very warm, light, and easy to care for. An insulated over gaiter is not necessary to wear over this system.) • Poles - adjustable • Climbing Skins - full width, properly fitted, and well glued • Repair kit - extra parts and tools that are specific to your gear
• Ski tie strap
Glacier/Mountaineering Gear
• Seat harness adjustable to fit over warm clothes (with chest sling option) • Two shoulder length webbing slings • One Prusik cord: 3 metres long (10 feet), 6 mm diameter
• One Prusik cord: 5 metres (16 feet) long, 6 mm diameter • Two locking carabiners (one munter or pear-shaped) • Two non-locking carabiners • One ice screw
• Light-weight mountaineering ice axe • Crampons (pre-fit and tested on climbing/ski boot) • Avalanche transceiver (457 kHz) with spare batteries • Avalanche snow shovel, collapsible • Avalanche probe • Ski Crampons
Some notes on equipment
No equipment or replacement parts will be available on the trip, so be sure you arrive properly equipped with all items adjusted, sized and in very good condition. Shortages and inadequate gear may limit your enjoyment of the experience, rule out your participation in some activities, or impose an unnecessary burden on other participants. It is highly advisable that all equipment (particularly new, borrowed or unfamiliar gear) is checked out extensively before the camp on at least one other trip. Marco and Zac will supply general group gear including tents, ropes, first aid
kits, stoves/fuel, pots, repair kit, extra technical gear, sleds, radio/satellite phone, etc.

Other Useful Information
Do not burden yourself with too much clothing: three changes are sufficient for socks, underwear, etc. The environment is all snow and ice so you don't tend to get dirty. It doesn't rain in the St. Elias Mountains, so you won't get wet. Outer clothing should be layered. Full zippered warm-up pants are good for the cold early morning starts and can then easily be removed when the day warms up (or full zippered Gore-tex pants can add warmth by blocking the wind). A large white long sleeve shirt is a good idea to wear during the intense heat and sun of the afternoons. If you are not proficient with the gear that you will be bringing on the trip, please be sure to get out and practice with it. If you are bringing new skis and ski mountaineering
or telemark boots, practice skiing with a pack and climbing with the boots that you will be using at the camp.

Trip Logistics top of page

Food Logistics top of this page

Fees include:  expedition food for thirty days beginning on May 8; dinner and breakfast in Whitehorse on May 7 and 8
Fees do not include: restaurant meals other than those listed above.

Accommodation Logistics top of this page

Fees include:  accommodation at the Best Western on May 7; basecamp tents for trip duration.
Fees do not include: Accommodation required as a result of weather delays or any accommodation not listed above.

Transportation Logistics top of this page

Fees include: transportation to and from Mt. Logan