Bourgeau Left

A centerpiece route, Bourgeau Left is easily seen as a blue jewel set amongst large cliffs from Sunshine Skiing resort. It offers 3 immaculate pitches in a scenic and sunny local. Not to be missed, it should be on everyone’s tick list. The route goes at IV WI 5 185M, it has avalanche hazard from a large bowl above. The approach and descent are relatively short and straightforward. All anchors were retro-bolted by iceXpert guide Eric Dumerac in 2009. A new bolted mixed route- Toishi (F.A. E. Dumerac & Y. Miyazaki Jan 2010) climbs the fist two pitches of Bourgeau, then traverses left for 2 pitches of alpine mixed up to M5+.

Approach/Descent: Drive up the Sunshine ski resort road a few kilometers West of the town of Banff. Parking is at the far end parking lots. A usually well worn trail is found at the back of the parking, past some ski hill storage. The trail works its way to the base of the route. Descent is via 3 bolted stations. From the 3rd station (big cave on the left after a snow slope) it is reccomended to climb it as a single pitch. On the rappel it is reccomended to skip the middle station of the last pitch, as it is old and usually under some hanging daggers- This pitch is 52 meters long. Equipment: 2 X 60 meter ropes, 6-10 screws, 8- 12 draws/screamers, 2 double length slings for bolted stations.

Equipment List top of page

•  Equipment List item one
•  Equipment List item two

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