Mt Waddington: Ski Mountaineering

Mount Waddington, 4019m above sea level, is the highest peak in the Coast mountain range of British Columbia. While the main summit is technical and only accessible in summer by advanced mountaineers, the North West summit (4000m high) provides one of the most interesting and aesthetic ski mountaineering challenge in the Coast Mountains. It is a Canadian Classic!
While Waddington is the main goal on this trip, the area offers many other interesting peak ascents/descents including; Mount Munday, Jester, Cavalier & Finality Mountains. Join us and discover the massive scale of the Waddington Icecap area while ski-mountaineering on some of the largest glaciers & peaks in British Columbia.

Weather
The Coast mountain weather can vary drastically in winter, however it tends to be drier and more stable in the Spring. In April and May, you can expect alpine temperatures to be from -15C to 0C in the day while in early morning and at night temperatures could fall well below that. Statistically, advanced Spring offers the best possible weather for ski mountaineering in the Waddington area. The longer days, warmer temperatures, more stable snowpack & typically drier conditions all contribute to this.
Despite the weather trends, visibility may be poor or whiteout conditions when snowing heavily or clear on bluebird days.  Ensure you are dressed for all variations as temperatures, wind and precipitation can change within the day. 

Trip Itinerary top of page

Mount Waddington and the Waddington Icecap are located in the Coast Mountains of South-Western British Columbia. We will access this pristine and remote mountain wilderness area by helicopter from Bluff Lake, B.C. Since it takes 8 to 10 hours to drive from Vancouver to Bluff Lake, we highly recommend that participants car pool. Participants will meet the guide(s) at 4pm on the 1st day at the White Saddle B&B in Bluff Lake for a relaxing Dinner followed by a final gear check. We will then go over last minute changes (weather & avalanche conditions) and logistic for the following day(s). We will also sign a liability waiver. The fees for 2 nights at the White Saddle B & B, on the first and last night of the trip, are included in the price.

2011 Itinerary

The weather and conditions will have a direct effect on our exact itinerary. Here is a sample itinerary:
• May 7th; Participants will meet the guide(s) at 4pm at the White Saddle B&B in Bluff Lake for a relaxing dinner followed by a final gear check. We will go over last minute changes (weather & avalanche conditions) and logistic for the following day(s). We will also sign a liability waiver.
• May 8th; We will fly to the Dias Glacier, establish our base camp, do an avalanche beacon exercise and go for a short ski-tour.
• May 9th through 16th; Depending on the weather, conditions and participants, we will use the best possible window of opportunity to ascent to the Northwest summit of Mount Waddington. Ideally we will work ourselves up to it by acclimatizing and ski touring some of the nearby summits including; Mt Munday, Jester, Cavalier & Finality Mountains.
• May 16th and 17th; We will fly back to Bluff Lake in the afternoon of May 16th and enjoy a refreshing homemade meal and last night at the White Saddle B&B. After a luxurious breakfast on May 17th, participants will start individual travels back home.
 

Equipment List top of page

The equipment and clothing you bring will have a big impact on the quality of your trip. Make sure to bring all items listed except for items that are listed as optional (either are luxuries or your guide will be carrying for the group).

Temperatures can vary widely in the springtime. They can increase from –20C overnight to +10C on sunny days. For clothing use the ‘layer system’: Light technical clothing that doesn’t take much space in your backpack and dries quickly if sweaty or wet. Layers that can be put on and taken off fast if weather conditions change during the day. If you have any questions about anything please contact us.

Technical Equipment
• Alpine Touring skis (lightweight bindings like Dynafit or Silvretta Pure is recommended)
• Alpine touring boots (With Vibram sole)
• Ski poles (with regular powder baskets)
• Climbing skins (At least as wide as the waist of your ski)
• Avalanche transceiver (475 Megahertz with extra batteries)
• Lightweight snow shovel
• Avalanche probe
• Backpack, medium sized (about 45 liters) with rain cover (i.e. garbage bag) and outside straps to attach skis.
• Climbing harness for glacier travel
• 1 Ice Axe (preferably light weight with a maximum length of 60cm)
• Boot Crampons, lightweight if possible (i.e. aluminum)
• 2 locking carabiners (Your guide will bring a full set of Crevasse rescue equipment)
• 1 non-locking carabiners
• Prusik cords (2 times 5m length of 6mm cord)
• A 1m section of 6mm cord
• Ski crampons
• Repair kit / spare parts for your bindings (optional)

Clothing
• Wind and waterproof shell jacket with hood (Gore Tex or similar)
• Wind and waterproof over pants (Gore Tex or similar with integrated gaiters)
• Warm pants (insulated / fleece/ polypro)
• Fleece pullover or jacket
• Medium weight fleece shirt or vest
• Capilene, fleece or wool underwear, top and bottoms
• 2 Pairs of gloves (lightweight and heavier weight)
• Scarf, neck gaiter or bandanna
• Socks: thicker outer (wool) and thinner liners
• Wool or fleece hat, covering the ears
• Sun hat, preferably with wide rim
• Down vest
• Down Booties with covers
• Spare underwear, socks

Other items:
• Winter sleeping bag (mommy style, rated to -20 Celsius or -4 Fahrenheit minimum)
• Insulated sleeping pad (full length, Ridgerest with a Thermarest above is ideal)
• Snacks and lunches for at least 7 days (candy bars, dried fruit and sausage, cheese, nuts, etc.)
• Sun Glasses (with very good UV protection, extra pair is a good idea)
• Sun screen and lip protection
• Ski Goggles
• A 1 liter Water bottle, preferably insulated (Camel backs not recommended)
• Personal items (Prescription medicine, extra contact lenses and maintenance Equipment, prescription glasses etc.)
• Pocket knife or Leatherman tool
• Headlamp with spare battery and bulb
• Small Blister kit
• Zip-lock bag for wallet and other documents to keep them dry (recommended)
• Camera, batteries (optional)
• Skin wax (a small amount)
• Toiletries (minimum supply)
• Ear Plugs (optional but very useful)
• Light stuff sacs or zip lock bags to keep your backpack organized (optional)
• A small book and/or writing material
• Health/Travel insurance documents/numbers
 

Trip Logistics top of page

Food Logistics top of this page

From the moment we meet in Bluff Lake to the time we depart, all breakfast and dinners are included. We will enjoy some good homemade food at the White Saddle B&B before and after our trip. While in the mountain, you can count on varied and generous backcountry breakfasts and Dinners. Lunches, alcohol and snacks are not included.

Accommodation Logistics top of this page

Fees include 2 nights at the comfortable White Saddle B & B in Bluff Lake and 7 nights at a base camp location on the Dias Glacier. On the Glacier camp, we supply a large base camp tent, personal tents, the use of stoves and cooking supplies. Fees do not include: Accommodation required as a result of weather delays or any accommodation not listed above.

Transportation Logistics top of this page

Transportation by helicopter from Bluff Lake to Base Camp return is included in the price. Personal transportation to and from Bluff Lake is not included.